Swatch in the Round
Get perfect gauge for projects knit in the round.
It’s vitally important to take gauge for a project knit in the round from a swatch that’s also knit in the round. That’s because nearly all of us have a slightly different tension and gauge when we never have to turn our work and purl for the reverse side of stockinette stitch.
Since swatching is already the least favourite part of the process for most of us, do we really want to double it up by creating a tube that is at least twice as many stitches as a flat swatch would require?
(No. No, we do not.)
Never fear. The methods below will have you finished swatching and with your actual project on the needles in no time.
How to do it:
Basic Principle:
You’ll be creating a tubular gauge swatch by only ever working the right side and letting the yarn float behind the fabric for half of the “tube”.
But first, a cheat:
If you, like me, don’t want to feel as though you’re “wasting” your swatching time, use my favourite hack:
Cast on a Just Plain Hat* in a small-ish size that’s at least 12 inches (or 30 centimetres) in circumference and in the yarn weight and needle called for by the pattern. Since the hat is already designed in three yarn weights (fingering, worsted, and bulky), just pick a yarn weight close to what you’re working with and a size you think will give you at least five inches to count gauge from when laid flat and knit it up.
As one knitting sage once told me, “It will fit someone.” (And who doesn’t want a quick gift ready to go for the littles in your life?)
Note that you’ll need a little more yarn for this method than a regular swatch in the round, and if you’re short on yarn for your project, you’ll probably be much more loathe to rip into that finished hat than a regular gauge swatch.
*Sometimes I use a pair of Just Plain Mittens instead, depending on the yarn and needle combo called for. The pattern is designed for the same three yarn weight and needle combinations as the Just Plain Hat, but mittens are less forgiving as far as fit is concerned.
OR use the more traditional swatching method below.
Making the Swatch
Use double-pointed or circular needles in the required size. Cast on and knit your first row with enough stitches to make your gauge measurement plus about six extra stitches. I like to do a few rows of garter stitch (knit every row) at the beginning and end of swatches to make them lie flatter. If you do, too, go ahead and do that.
Bamboo double-pointed needle with several rows of garter stitch in chunky yarn.
Ready to stockinette?
Instead of flipping the needle over and purling back, scoot those stitches back down to the other end of your needle and carry the yarn loosely along the back, then knit the next row. Make sure to leave lots of length on the carried yarn floats so they don’t pull the swatch in towards the back.
The same gauge swatch, now with a couple rows of stockinette stitch above the garter stitch and the yarn from the left side carried back to the right loosely.
Continue this way, knitting every row, until your swatch is large enough. Don't worry about those loosey-goosey stitches on the end. That's why we made sure there were extra.
Finish it off with some more garter stitch and bind off.
Right side of completed swatch, showing several rows of garter stitch at the top and bottom, about five inches (or 12.5 cm) of stockinette stitch between them, and the edges curling behind slightly. Several long floats of yarn droop beneath the lower edge.
Wrong side of completed swatch, showing the yarn floats across the back of the swatch.
Count your gauge (and if you are not sure how to do that, see my tutorial about Reading Knit and Purl Stitches).
Ta-da! A much more accurate gauge swatch for in-the-round projects.
Happy knitting!
